Payanam

ANAVILA | FESTIVE 2024

Payanam, meaning “journey” in Tamil, was developed around the Chettinad heritage and the cosmopolitan lives of the Chettiar community, and debuted at the Chettinad Heritage Festival. The Kanit check became one of the collection’s key textiles, developed in two colourways across handwoven linen and handspun, handwoven silk. Inspired by the architectural blueprints of Chettinad mansions, the checks became a way of bringing the built environment into the textile itself. Alongside textile development, the project extended into shaping the show narrative, coordinating with the show director, developing visual direction and researching stories around the Chettiars. A word puzzle created for guests at the heritage festival became another way of bringing the audience into the world of the collection before the show began.

PAYANAM | ANAVILA | PRE-FESTIVE'24 “Every day is a journey, and the journey itself is home.” Matsuo Basho Every journey begins with a spark, a yearning to explore new horizons. Immersed in vibrant cultures and art, travelers gather lessons and stories, weaving them into their lives. Each experience adds depth, a new chapter of shared story. In Chettinad, children grow up listening to lullabies that whisper tales of travel, rich with history and tradition. By blending these experiences, they celebrate the beauty of diversity, making life a journey of continuous growth and connection. PAYANAM, which translates to “journey” in Tamil, is a textile collection inspired by the opulent heritage of Chettinad, Tamil Nadu, and the lavish lifestyles of its well-traveled individuals. PAYANAM weaves together the elegant aesthetics of grand mansions with a global tapestry of influences, including elements of classical architecture from Europe, vibrant gemstones from Burma, and the intricate Minton tiles that inspired the famous Athangudi tiles. Each piece in this collection reflects a rich cultural mosaic that transports you to a world of grandeur and nostalgia, adorned with murals of mythological characters like yali and peacocks that further enrich the narrative. Central to the collection are the hand-woven textures that serve as its foundation. The experimentation with yarns creates a striking play of monochromatic linen, forming bold checkered patterns set against a base of metallic zari. Other textiles feature complex plain weaves, consisting of one linen and one zari yarn paired together in the warp, woven with a zari weft to create a unique drape. Check patterns mimic the blueprints of Chettinad mansions, while their vivid colors draw inspiration from the surrounding landscape. Classic South Indian borders and sari layouts are reimagined in fine linens, showcasing innovative materiality. The collection also celebrates the art of hand embroidery and appliqué. Each textile tells a story of comfort and festive spirit, with iconic horses of Chettinad and mythological chimeras adding intricate layers of detail. Metallic textiles paint a festive narrative on a subtle canvas of clean silhouettes. The apparel range showcases safari jacket sets and skirts influenced by Dravidian drapes. Each dress not only highlights the beauty of the textile but also maintains versatility for various occasions. The range offers a modern twist on classic designs, ensuring cultural significance while translating visual inspiration into contemporary wear. PAYANAM creates a harmonious celebration of Chettinad’s rich heritage and artistry, inviting you to embark on a journey through its vibrant and enchanting legacy.